Mechelen Masters and More

...and surroundings

97 metres. Even though St Rumbold’s Tower is 70 metres shorter than originally planned, the impression it makes is still stunning. Since the 13th century, the cathedral tower has dominated Mechelen’s cityscape. Between you and the tower walkway there are no fewer than 538 steps, but the climb is definitely worth the effort. Along the way, admire two monumental carillons and, at the top, the phenomenal views will not disappoint. If you look closely, you can even see the spheres of the Atomium in Brussels gleaming in the distance.

Inside St Rumbold’s Cathedral, you find Antoon van Dyck’s painting ‘Christ on the Cross’. The works of Michel Coxcie, Gaspard de Crayer and Abraham Janssens are also excellent. The absolute masterpiece is the high altar crafted in 1665 by Lucas Faydherbe.

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Mechelen is the world capital of carillon music. Consequently, the Carillon School near the cathedral enjoys fame from America to Japan. Speaking of carillons: in St Martin’s Garden behind the school, there is a mobile version. Want to know more? Then the podcast walk ‘Heavy Metal Route’ is what you need to take.

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Hungry after your climb up the tower? The culinary route ‘Mmm... Mechelen’ delves into Mechelen’s Burgundian history. Twelve Mechelen tastemakers cook modern dishes with ingredients that were already in use in the 16th century.  . For example, how about a vegan renaissance burger at Funky Jungle? Or some creamy cheese with coriander seeds and figs at Schockaert? ‘May your meal agree with you’ a Burgundian at the time would have said.

From the marvellous Rubens to the Haverwerf

Peter Paul Rubens probably does not need any introduction. The Church of Our Lady across the Dyle contains a masterpiece by the great artist: ‘The miraculous draught of fishes’. This monumental triptych, painted for the fisherman’s guild, miraculously escaped destruction during WWII, when a US bomb destroyed part of the church.

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The best photo of your visit to Mechelen can be taken at the Haverwerf. There are three colourful cottages there: centuries-old, photogenic and popular. Did you spot the baroque façade of St Joseph’s, as the building on the left is called? The scroll-like adornments, typical of the Mechelen Baroque, betray the influence of Lucas Faydherbe.

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Would you prefer to move on the water instead of next to it? Then take a boat trip on the Dyle. Along the way, the skipper recounts fascinating stories about Mechelen’s many attractions and its rich heritage.

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The Haverwerf is also a stopping point along the culinary route ‘Mmm... Mechelen’. Here you find The Cacao Project by Pieter Vaes. The chocolatier created a praline in the shape of a glossy beetle - a nod to Margaret of Austria’s exotic cabinet of curiosities.

From Lucas Faydherbe to Rubens Castle

What Peter Paul Rubens was to painting, Lucas Faydherbe was to sculpture. The stunning relief arches under the dome of the Basilica of Our Lady of Hanswijk are his work. This pupil of Rubens was also responsible for the design of the church.

The basilica boasts an exceptionally rich art heritage, including religious furniture and textiles. The highlight is the 18th-century antependium - the covering on the front of an altar - which is protected as a Flemish masterpiece.

That Faydherbe was a jack-of-all-trades is evidenced by the Botanical Garden, the park next to the church. He created the design for the front building and the stables in 1600. Commissioned by: the Commandery of Pitzemburg, owner of the garden at the time.

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Works of Rubens are to be found in Mechelen; his home is just outside. A stone’s throw away - in the charming village of Elewijt - there is Rubens Castle. The master bought the building in 1635 and promptly had it converted into a Flemish Renaissance-style castle. How to cycle from here to this historic spot? Cycle via the nodes 57 - 64 - 58 - 54 - 61 - 19 - 49. 

From the Jesuits to the Winter Garden of the Ursulines.

The Church of St Peter and St Paul is the church of the parish of the same name. The Jesuit order, who laid the first stone in 1670, was behind the creation of this imposing Baroque structure. They made the church into something truly special. This is evident, for example, in the absolute highlight: the oak pulpit, crafted by sculptor Hendrik Frans Verbruggen.

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From the Church of St Peter and St Paul, you can cycle in just under an hour  to the Winter Garden of the Ursulines. That ride via the Mechelen-Winter Garden cycle route rewards you with a unique experience. Behind the walls of a former girls’ boarding school, there is a beautiful Art Nouveau winter garden.

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The culinary route ‘Mmm... Mechelen’ - where twelve Mechelen tastemakers prepare modern dishes using ingredients from the 16th century - also has a stop here. At ice cream parlour Gauthier, feast on ice cream with pieces of stewed apple and fennel.

In the footsteps of Erasmus and Thomas More

In the late 15th and early 16th centuries, Mechelen was the administrative and judicial centre of Burgundian Netherlands. Nobles, artists, philosophers and scientists settled in this city on the River Dyle, which had been promoted to the centre of power by Margaret of Austria in 1507.

Hof van Busleyden reveals the thriving Burgundian history of Mechelen in all its glory. Among other things, you can admire unique Renaissance murals here. In the halls where you walk now, thinkers like Thomas More and Erasmus once debated. Fascinating, would you not agree?

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Mechelen was also the gastronomic capital of Burgundian Netherlands in the 16th century. From all corners of the world, new ingredients, spices and dishes found their way into its kitchens. The culinary walk ‘Mmm... Mechelen’ brings the Mechelen tastemakers from that time to life in new dishes. Want to taste more? Click the link and enjoy.

Baroque reigns supreme

Mechelen’s rich past is a treasure trove for top-quality works of art. Step into St John’s Church and: you already come face-to-face with another masterpiece. ‘The Adoration of the Magi’ is a triptych that highlights the impressive craftsmanship of Peter Paul Rubens. Note the middle panel, where the light of Jesus shines sublimely on the faces of the visitors.

The church holds yet more delights. During the restoration, exceptionally well-preserved 14th-century murals were uncovered. It is definitely worth climbing the stairs to the first tower floor for an exceptional glimpse of St Christopher and St George.

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Interested in even more baroque? Just around the corner from St John’s Church, there is the Grote Markt, with baroque facades on all sides. The houses in the IJzerenleen are neo-baroque in style, built after the destruction of World War I.

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Of course, ‘Mmm... Mechelen’ also makes a culinary stop at the Grote Markt. You will find a warm welcome at Philip’s Biscuits, where you can purchaser a forgotten Mechelen city biscuit. The bakers revived this using ingredients that were already in use in the 16th century.

Unexpected splendour

Do not judge a book by its cover. This well-known English saying fits the 14th-century Church of St Catherine like a glove. The Gothic church may seem humble from the outside, but inside it is truly breathtaking. Pieter Valckx’s exquisite pulpit, for instance, is an impressive piece of carving.

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Are you by chance in the vicinity on Saturday? Then step round the corner and wander into the wonderful world of Royal Manufacturers De Wit. Here, skilled craftsmen restore tapestries from all over the world by hand, commissioned by prestigious museums and collectors. A little side note: this building used to serve as the refuge of Tongerlo abbey. Monks could find a safe haven here in troubled times.

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As mentioned previously, the culinary route ‘Mmm... Mechelen’ brought together twelve Mechelen tastemakers to prepare some delicacies of today with ingredients from the Burgundian kitchen. That is how De Zotte Morgen makes speculaas - and not just any sort. This artisanal bakery uses Margaret of Austria’s favourite recipe. At Broodbroeders, indulge yourself with renaissance-style gingerbread. This is made with: rye, apple-pear syrup and a secret 16th-century spice mix.

From the Beguinage church to brewery het Anchor

The baroque Beguinage church in Mechelen is a gem and not only on the outside. The interior as well - crafted by: Pieter Huyssens, Jacques Franckaert and Lucas Faydherbe - certainly worth seeing, along with the rich collection of paintings.

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Looking to make a picturesque snapshot? Then the Great Beguinage is a good place to do so; one of Mechelen’s most picturesque spots. This has been home to the beguines since the 13th century. The Beguines lived frugally and wanted as few distractions in their lives as possible. But within their community, they were anything but idle. The Beguines even brewed beer. ... This still happens here today, at city brewery Het Anker. The birthplace of the famous Gouden Carolus is well worth a visit.

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Het Anker is also the start and finish location for the Mechelen-Boom circuit. This is a delightful cycle route along car-free towpaths along the Dyle, Nete, Zenne and Rupel rivers. With many restaurants and cafes en route, there is no need to go hungry or thirsty. You see right away why this route was awarded the seal of approval by Flanders’ Finest Cycle Routes.

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To talk about Het Anker is to talk about Batteliek. This micro-brewery, micro-distillery and lemonade factory - housed in a former church in Battel, a stone’s throw from Mechelen - is also a stop on the ‘Mmm... Mechelen’ culinary route. Here you can enjoy a delicious glass of Mechelse Felle, a beer with roots that date back to the 16th century!