Master Tour Ghent

Anyone mentioned in the same breath as Peter Paul Rubens may rightly be called a prodigy. Anthony van Dyck helped shape the Baroque and that you can see in this church. All the ingredients for a vintage van Dyck are there: drama, emotion and a brilliant painter’s touch.

His work ‘The Crucifixion’ was given the hallmark of Flemish Masterpiece, and rightly so. Antoon van Dyck combines a very simple composition with powerful emotions: the suffering of Christ, the sorrow of Mary, John and Mary Magdalene and the cruelty of the soldiers. The contrast between the dramatic, dark cloud cover, the ashen Christ and the colourful bystanders amplifies the emotional intensity of the scene. 

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The most beautiful selfie in Ghent? Take it on the Graslei and Korenlei. Take a breather from your Master Tour here, and enjoy the view of the picturesque facades and the bobbing boats.

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Walk a couple of minutes further and you arrive at the Groentenmarkt. There, the foodie in you has come to the right place for Ghent’s two quintessential delicacies.

At the stalls, you are welcome to try the delicious cuberdons, the so-called ‘Ghent noses’. This sweet treat is filled with delicious raspberry syrup.

The second delicacy to be found at the Groentenmarkt? That is the artisanal mustard from Tierenteyn-Verlent, the recipe for which dates back to the mid-19th century. Even Willem Elsschot was a fan. The writer penned his famous ‘mustard verses’ for this charming shop.

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From Flemish Masters to new art. Let yourself be surprised by the contemporary artworks in Graffiti Street, only a stone’s throw from here.

A short distance away, on the other side of the Lys, you find one of the most beautiful castles in the world: ‘The Castle of the Counts’. The turbulent history of this moated castle is closely intertwined with that of the city. Up for more of these beautiful delights? Then take the Flanders’ Finest Cycling along castles route.

Is it time to refuel with a bite to eat? You can do so at Balls & Glory, near St Michael’s Church. Here classic meatballs are served with a modern twist. For instance, how about a meatball with stoemp (mashed potatoes with vegetables) and – instead of the traditional dollop of mustard – a spicy green curry or a hot sauce made from Belgian peppers?

A dessert can be found on the Kraanlei. Confiserie Temmerman has the richest selection of Ghent’s many sweets.  

Does a historic night in Ghent appeal to you? The luxury boutique hotel 1898 The Post can offer you a blissful bed in one of its 38 stylishly decorated rooms and suites. The former post office building is perfectly located: between the Korenmarkt and the idyllic Graslei.

NH Collection Gent is the perfect place to stay for those wanting to soak up Ghent’s rich history.  

Make the most of your stay in Ghent: explore the city after dark with the Ghent Light Plan. Not only are the historic buildings beautifully illuminated; you are treated to sublime light art along the way. The highlight is on the Predikherenlei, with the artwork ‘The Blue Birds’. This gem is inspired by the symbolist theatre piece ‘L’oiseau bleu’ from Nobel literature laureate Maurice Maeterlinck. 

Or Holy Christmas Church. Colloquially, this beautiful church is also known as the ‘Skippers’ Church’. You do not have to look far for the reason. Here, Ghent’s skippers’ families gathered for the weekly Mass, baptised their children, got married and laid their loved ones to rest. So it is no accident that there is a ship’s bow in the square in front of the church.

Since 2018, St Saviour’s Church has been the meeting point for the Ukrainian Greek Catholic community in Ghent. This is no accident either, as the murals on the walls of the church choir are neo-Byzantine. The radiant starry sky and the 5-metre-high blessing Christ are the work of the Ghent painter and academy director Théodore Canneel. Following the restoration in 2017, the colourful piece now radiates in all its glory. 

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The ‘Schippers’ Church’ can be found near the Old Docks in Ghent, a part of town that once effervesced with activity and industry. There is more to discover at the Museum of Industry.  

Talking about effervescence. If you fancy a local beer, pop into microbrewery Dok Brewing Company on the Handelsdok. This convivial brewing pub in Hal 16 serves locally brewed beers served fresh from the tap. Feel free to drop by for a savoury snack as well.

Something sweet for dessert? Bakkerij Himschoot serves a Ghent speciality beloved for generations: the gestreken mastellen or “ironed mastels”, a sweetened bagel.

Do you want to reduce the ecological footprint of your visit to Ghent? Then combine the pleasant with the useful and fish a bucket of trash out of the water. You can do so every weekend during the boating season at DOKano, by the Houtdok. Before you cast off, you will be given all the necessary equipment - including a grabber - to clean up Ghent’s waterways.  

Now head further south and wander along the Lys and the Reep. 

St James’ Church is a unique place where Romanesque architecture harmoniously interweaves with the Baroque.

Noteworthy is the triptych depicting the three most important moments of Christ’s life: his birth, martyrdom on the cross and resurrection. Michiel Coxcie, one of the artists who brought the Italian Renaissance to the Southern Netherlands, painted The Crucifixion in 1579. The ‘Flemish Raphael’ - as he was called - portrayed the abbot and took charge of painting the risen Christ. Much later, Jan van Cleef painted the scenes at the front on the side panels. 

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Every weekend, a second-hand and antique market takes place around St James’ Church. On the hunt for more antique, vintage, and design? In Ghent, you have come to the right place!  

You also find Belgium’s oldest indoor swimming pool here, beautifully decorated in Art Deco style. The van Eyck Swimming Pool is named - as you could probably guess - after the two Flemish Masters.

St Bavo’s Abbey is one of the city’s most picturesque spots. The ruins, once the cradle of the city, are well worth a visit. There are volunteers from the Neighbours of the Abbey on hand who can provide expert explanations.  ip

Be sure to pop into the Lousbergmarkt, a cornucopia of local Ghent products. The Queen Astrid Park, next door, is a prime spot for a pleasant picnic. 

Our Lady ter Hoyen is the best preserved beguinage from before the French Revolution. The ‘Small Beguinage’ was founded in 1235 by the Countess of Flanders. Behind the long façade on the street side are a baroque church, a hundred or so houses and a meadow, the former cemetery.  

Showpiece of the Baroque church is Lucas II Horenbout’s polyptych dating from 1596. The blood from Christ’s five cross wounds flows first into the Fountain of Life and then via angelic faces into the Fountain of Mercy. Martyrs add their blood to it. On earth, believers offer their hearts for just a few drops, with the pope in the front row. 

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The origins of Ghent lie in two locations: St Bavo’s Abbey and St Peter’s Abbey. The lush abbey garden, with its fruit trees and idyllic vineyard, is the perfect place to take a breather. Still some time left? The medieval refectory wing is well worth a visit, as are the prestigious exhibitions held at the abbey.  

A little further on, you find STAM, the Ghent City Museum. There, you can delve into the rich history of Ghent. Begin in impressive fashion, with the imposing medieval murals in the 14th-century refectory of Bijloke Abbey.

Do you want to end your Master’s adventure in style? Then go to Souvenir, a small gourmet restaurant only a 10-minute walk from the Beguinage. Here, seasonal vegetables are transformed into avant-garde dishes by the chef, awarded a Michelin star and a green star for sustainable gastronomy.