Peter Paul Rubens: the genius of Antwerp

In The Miraculous Draught of Fishes, Rubens depicts three scenes in as many panels. The master painted this work commissioned by the influential guild of Mechelen’s fishmongers, who wanted to depict the wealth of their craft. 
 

This parish was one of the richest in Mechelen, which is why the church has some exceptional works of art. The highlight is The Adoration of the Magi, a sublime expression of Rubens’ craftsmanship. Look out for the light that radiates from Jesus and illuminates the face of the bystanders.

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Rubens had a sculptural equivalent. Lucas Faydherbe was a contemporary, and even spent several years in the atelier of the Flemish baroque painter. Faydherbe was originally from Mechelen, which means that you can admire the work of this Rubens in stone in many Mechelen churches.

For instance, the two relief arches in the Basilica of Our Lady of Hanswijk are true highlights of baroque sculpture in the southern low countries. Both The Adoration of the Shepherds and The Fall of Jesus under the Cross on Calvary are masterpieces in compositional ingenuity and expression.

You can also find work by Lucas Faydherbe in the Beguinage Church. The statue of St. Catherine in the baroque front façade is by his hand, as is part of the interior. You can also admire paintings there by Theodoor van Loon and others.

Each place tells its own story. The Our Lady of Leliëndaal Church was designed by Lucas Faydherbe, who drew inspiration for it from the Jesuits. The baroque façade propels your gaze from left to right and from bottom to top. Finally, it is the statue of Ignatius van Loyola, the founder of the Jesuits, situated at the very top that holds the eye.    

“Heaven on earth”, Antwerp residents called this triumphant Baroque church, with its dynamic front façade, refined interior and sublime Rubens chapel. Also to admire here is The return of the Holy Family, the masterpiece that Nicolaas Rockox – mayor of the city and personal friend of the painter – donated to the church in 1620.

Speaking of Rockox, the mayor was for 20 years the neighbour of Frans Snijders, painter of animals and still lifes. Their adjoining homes now form a wonderful museum: the Snijders & Rockox House. 

In this gothic church you will not find a painting by Rubens, but you can see his final resting place. The marble decoration, the 24 altars and the rich art treasure make your visit more than worthwhile. The pilgrims to Santiago de Compostella think so too, because St. James’s Church is a regular stop on their way.

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Want to look Rubens in the eye? His statue stands on the Groenplaats in Antwerp.  

If you walk a little further, you come to the Cathedral of Our Lady. There you can admire no fewer than four of the master’s paintings.

There are more works by Rubens in the Royal Museum of Fine Arts in Antwerp. This is where the restoration of the gigantic altarpiece Virgin with Child and Saints is currently taking place. The painting is so large that the work is being carried out in the room itself. Studio Rubens – as the restoration was christened – offers a unique opportunity to follow this imposing work from the front row.

Visit the Rubens House this summer. It is then that the new reception building and the baroque garden will be opening, decorated using plant and colour advice provided by the famous couturier Dries Van Noten. 

As diplomat and adviser at the court of the Archduke and Archduchess Albrecht and Isabella, Rubens often came to Brussels. He played a crucial role in the decoration of the Ducal Palace on the Coudenberg. The most remarkable work of the master in the capital is the painting Christ giving the keys to Saint Peter. Rubens painted the original at the request of his friend and colleague Jan Brueghel the Elder. That painting was sold in 1765 and replaced by this copy.

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More works by Rubens in Brussels? The Royal Museum of Fine Arts has filled its most beautiful room with them. 

Even though we know nothing about Rubens staying in Aalst, you can admire the work of the master in the Onion City. Pieces such as Christ Appointing Saint Roch as Patron Saint of Plague Victims, which he painted at his peak as an artist. The commissioner was the guild of hop and grain merchants, who venerated Roch as their patron saint.